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Neil Forbes

Speyside Whisky Tour From Edinburgh: How I Plan Two or Three Days

Speyside has more working distilleries than any other part of Scotland, and most of them sit within a few miles of Aberlour, Craigellachie and Dufftown. From Edinburgh, that cluster is about 170 to 180 miles north, or roughly three hours in the car before any stops.

That distance shapes every Speyside whisky tour I plan. Here is how I lay out the drive, which distilleries need booking early, and how a two-day trip compares with three.

The drive north

I take the A9 almost every time. We leave Edinburgh, cross the Forth, and go up through Perth and Pitlochry, over the Drumochter Pass and past Aviemore. At Aviemore we turn onto the A95 for Grantown-on-Spey and follow the river down to Aberlour.

The road is easy and the scenery changes the whole way, from Perthshire woodland to open moor at Drumochter and pine forest round the Cairngorms. Three hours of driving usually becomes four with a coffee stop and a break to stretch.

There are two distilleries on the way. Blair Athol is in Pitlochry, and Dalwhinnie sits just off the A9 near the top of the pass. Dalwhinnie is one of Scotland’s highest distilleries and closes at short notice when winter weather comes in, so I treat it as a bonus and never the main event.

Which distilleries to book ahead

A few of the best-known names need planning weeks out.

The Macallan. Entry to the estate near Craigellachie is by appointment only. They release new dates at the start of each month, and in busy months the slots go quickly. If The Macallan matters to you, tell me early and I build the rest of the trip around the time we get.

Glenfiddich. The Dufftown distillery takes bookings up to 12 weeks ahead and says the chance of joining a tour without one is slim. It runs more tours in summer than in winter.

Smaller distilleries. Glenfarclas, owned by the Grant family since 1865, and Aberlour on the edge of the village are both worth a visit and easier to fit in. I still book them. Small groups mean small tours.

Outside the distilleries, the Speyside Cooperage on the road between Craigellachie and Dufftown shows how casks are made and repaired. It runs on weekdays only, which matters if your middle day falls on a Saturday.

A two-day Speyside whisky tour

Two days works if you want one good taste of the region.

Day 1. We leave Edinburgh at 8am, stop in Pitlochry, and reach Speyside in the early afternoon. That leaves time for one distillery before checking in. I usually choose a smaller one here, Glenfarclas or Aberlour, so the first visit is relaxed.

Day 2. The morning goes to your headline booking, often The Macallan or Glenfiddich. We have lunch in Craigellachie or Aberlour, and then I start the drive south by about 2pm. You are back in Edinburgh in the early evening.

Two distilleries in two days is about right. The drive takes most of the energy out of day one.

A three-day plan

Three days is the version I recommend for anyone who calls whisky a real interest.

The middle day stays in Speyside with no long drive at all. A typical day has one distillery in the morning, lunch, then a second in the afternoon, with the Speyside Cooperage or Glen Grant’s gardens in Rothes in between. Strathisla in Keith is a good choice if you drink blends, since it is the spiritual home of Chivas Regal.

On the third day, in summer, I sometimes come home a different way. We go up through Tomintoul and over the Lecht on the A939, then down through Braemar and Glenshee. It is a slower, higher road and much quieter than the A9. It is also often the first road in Britain closed by snow, so from late autumn I stick to the A9.

Timing your trip

May to September gives you the longest days and the fullest tour timetables. The Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival runs for about six days around the start of May, with hundreds of events and access to places that are normally closed. Book rooms early if you want to go then.

Winter is quieter and the light is lovely, but several distilleries cut back their hours between November and March. Some close on Sundays and others drop to five days a week. I check every booking against the current timetable before we set off.

Why a private driver matters here

Scotland’s drink-drive limit is lower than England’s, and in practice it means the person driving does not drink. On a self-drive trip that is usually the one person in the group who cares most about the whisky.

With me driving, everyone tastes. I hold the bottles you buy in the car, and I know which roads between distilleries are single-track and slow. If you would rather taste properly without the drive north, a private whisky tasting in Edinburgh covers several regions in one evening. For the full trip, my whisky distillery tours page sets out how I put these together.

Planning your Speyside trip

Tell me which distilleries are on your list, how many nights you have, and whether anyone in the group would rather walk the Speyside Way than sit through a third tour. I will come back with a route and the bookings that need making first. You can reach me through the contact page.

Frequently asked questions

Can you do a Speyside whisky tour from Edinburgh in one day?

You can, but I don’t recommend it. It means about six hours in the car for two or three hours at distilleries, and an early start and late return. One night in Speyside makes a big difference. If you only have a day, Perthshire distilleries such as Blair Athol in Pitlochry are much closer.

How far is Speyside from Edinburgh?

Aberlour and Craigellachie are about 170 miles from Edinburgh, and Dufftown is about 180. Allow three hours of driving each way on the A9, more in winter or with stops.

Where should we stay on a Speyside whisky tour?

Craigellachie and Aberlour put you within a few minutes of The Macallan, Glenfarclas, Aberlour and the Speyside Cooperage, and about 10 minutes from Dufftown. I suggest one base for the whole trip. Packing up every morning costs time you could spend at a distillery.

How many distilleries can you visit in a day?

Two is the comfortable number. Each tour runs from about one to two hours with tasting, and time between them for lunch and the drive keeps the second visit enjoyable. Three is possible, though by the third most guests are tasting less and remembering less.

When should I book a Speyside distillery tour?

As early as you can for The Macallan and Glenfiddich, ideally as soon as your travel dates are fixed. Glenfiddich opens bookings 12 weeks ahead. For festival week at the start of May, accommodation goes first, so book rooms several months out.

Neil Forbes

Neil is the founder of Saltire Executive Travel, offering the finest in Holidays and day tours throughout Scotland, including Golf, whisky and castles with History.