Skye comes up in almost every first conversation I have with guests planning a longer trip. They have seen the photographs of the Old Man of Storr and the Fairy Pools, and they want to know whether they can fit the island in from Edinburgh. You can, and it is one of my favourite trips to drive. But Skye is further away than most people expect, and the way I plan it starts with that distance.
How far is Skye from Edinburgh?
Portree, the island’s main town, is about 235 miles from Edinburgh. Without stops, that is around five hours of driving each way, and in practice nearer six once you allow for the A82 and the single-track roads on the island.
There are two good ways over. The first goes north past Loch Lomond, across Rannoch Moor and through Glencoe to Fort William, then west on the A87 past Eilean Donan Castle to the Skye Bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh. The bridge has been free to cross since the tolls were removed in 2004.
The second turns west at Fort William along the Road to the Isles, past the Glenfinnan Viaduct, to Mallaig. From there the CalMac ferry crosses to Armadale in the south of Skye in about 45 minutes. It sails all year on a reduced winter timetable, and CalMac says booking is essential on this route.
When I have the choice, I take one road out and the other back, so guests see different country on each leg.
Why I don’t recommend Skye as a day trip
Some coach companies sell Skye as a day trip from Edinburgh. I understand the appeal if time is short, but I don’t plan it that way. A return trip means ten to twelve hours of driving before you have stopped for anything, and most of your time on the island would be spent getting to the bridge and back.
If you only have one day, I would rather take you to Glencoe or Loch Ness and do it properly. My Highlands day trips post compares those routes. Skye deserves at least two nights.
A two or three day plan
This is the shape I start from. I adjust it for the season, the weather and what each group wants to see.
Day one: Edinburgh to Skye. We leave Edinburgh in the morning and head north through Glencoe, stopping for the view at the Three Sisters. After lunch near Fort William we drive the A87 to Eilean Donan Castle, on its small island where three lochs meet. Tickets are only sold at the castle on the day, so there is nothing to book in advance, but I check the opening dates: it closes for the whole of January and on a few other winter days. We cross the Skye Bridge in the late afternoon and stay in or near Portree.
Day two: the Trotternish peninsula. This loop north of Portree holds most of the views people come for. The Old Man of Storr is a rock pinnacle above the road, reached by a steep path. The walk is about 3.8km there and back, and Skye’s own visitor guide suggests allowing an hour and a quarter. Most guests take longer, because the view back over the Sound of Raasay keeps stopping them. Further north are the sea cliffs at Kilt Rock and the landslip of the Quiraing, where the narrow road climbs over the ridge from Staffin. I keep the day unhurried and plan the walks around the weather.
Day three: the west of the island and home. On a three day trip we spend the morning in the west. The Fairy Pools are a chain of clear pools below the Cuillin in Glen Brittle. The walk in from the car park is about 2.4km, on a path that can be wet and rocky, so good shoes matter. Between late March and mid October we can add Dunvegan Castle, the seat of the MacLeods, which opens daily in that season and closes for the winter. We then head south and either cross the bridge or catch the ferry from Armadale for the drive back to Edinburgh, arriving in the evening.
With two days, I drop the west of the island and spend the second afternoon on the road home.
Whisky on Skye
Talisker is the island’s best-known distillery, at Carbost on the shore of Loch Harport. It opens all year, and Talisker strongly recommends booking ahead, particularly in summer. In winter it can close at short notice when the weather turns, so I keep a back-up plan. It is a distillery tour: you walk round the stills and see where the whisky is made. If what you want is a relaxed tasting of several whiskies with someone to explain them, that is a different thing, and I run private whisky tastings in Edinburgh that suit some guests better. My whisky distillery tours page covers the distilleries I visit most often.
Book early for summer
Skye is busy from late spring to early autumn. Hotels in and around Portree fill up months ahead, and the car parks at the Storr and the Fairy Pools can fill up early in the day. If you are thinking of a summer visit, I would fix the dates and book rooms as early as you can.
A private car helps on the island. I know where to pull in on the single-track roads, and I can start early to reach the popular places before the coaches.
Skye in winter
Winter on Skye is quiet and beautiful, with snow on the Cuillin and almost nobody on the paths. It also needs careful planning. Around the shortest day the sun rises at about 9am in Portree and sets at about 3.40pm, so there are under seven hours of light. Some places close for the season: Dunvegan Castle shuts from mid October to late March, and Eilean Donan closes for all of January.
Weather matters more on Skye than almost anywhere I drive. Wind, rain and ice can close the Quiraing road or make a walk unwise. In winter I build in a spare half day and always have a plan B, which a private tour makes easy. My Scotland in winter post has more on planning the darker months.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit the Isle of Skye in a day from Edinburgh?
It is possible, but I don’t recommend it. A return trip means ten to twelve hours of driving, which leaves very little time on the island. Two or three days lets you see Skye properly.
How long does it take to drive from Edinburgh to Skye?
Portree is about 235 miles away. Allow five to six hours without long stops. With time at Glencoe and Eilean Donan, it becomes a full day.
Do you have to pay to cross the Skye Bridge?
No. The bridge has been toll free since 2004. If you would rather arrive by sea, the ferry from Mallaig to Armadale is the alternative.
When is the best time to visit Skye?
May, June and September are my favourite months: long days and fewer crowds than July and August. Winter is quieter still, but the days are short and some attractions close.
Is there a distillery on Skye?
Yes. Talisker at Carbost runs distillery tours, and booking ahead is wise. A distillery tour is different from a tasting, so I help guests choose the one that suits them.
If Skye is on your list, send me a note with your dates and how many of you are travelling. I’ll suggest how many nights to allow and the route I would take.
